DAY 1: Ancient Rome

For first-time visitors to Rome, a visit to the Colosseum and Roman Forum is a must, but there are plenty of other archeological sites to dig into on repeat visits. So on your first day in the Eternal City, start where it all began and then spend some time in one of the city’s coolest neighborhoods just up the hill.

10 a.m. - Colazione and the Colosseum

Start your morning the Roman way: with a cappuccino and maritozzo. Regoli near Piazza Vittorio is famous for these cream-filled buns and they always sell out, so get there early. From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and the Palatine Hill, which are all included on the same ticket. Make sure you book in advance—timed tickets for the Colosseum go on sale a month in advance and they must be reserved with your name (this is a new regulation put in place to prevent scalpers from scooping up all the tickets and reselling them at a premium).

If you’ve already checked those monuments off your list, visit the Domus Aurea (Nero’s pleasure palace) or Trajan’s Markets instead. There are more than enough ancient sites to keep you coming back again and again.

Ai Tre Scalini is under the ivy on the left side of Via Panisperna

1 p.m. - Lunch and Shopping in Monti 

In the afternoon, head up the hill to Monti, one of Rome’s most picturesque neighborhoods. Grab a table at beloved wine bar Ai Tre Scalini for a light lunch or stop by Zia Rosetta for a gourmet sandwich before browsing the shops on nearby Via del Boschetto and Via Urbana. 

Monti is full of independent boutiques selling everything from raw vegan chocolate to handmade jewelry by local artisans. A few favorites: Art Privé, where jeweler Antonio made a pair of earrings that I designed for my wedding; Kokoro, where I had a top made to measure; and Grezzo Raw Chocolate, where the vegan and gluten-free chocolate is surprisingly delicious.

The cocktails (and views) at the Court are worth the splurge

6:30 p.m. - Aperitivo with a view

Head back down the hill to take in the Colosseum from a different angle. The Court inside the Palazzo Manfredi Hotel has dead-on views of the ancient amphitheater. Cocktails are expensive (around €25), but they’re expertly shaken by a team of skilled bartenders and come with a bevy of gourmet bites from the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant.

8:30 p.m. – Dinner at Pianostrada

Take a taxi to Pianostrada, which is where I always bring my visiting friends and family for special occasions. Run by a team of three women, it strikes the perfect balance between casual and elegant, with shabby-chic decor and a charming interior garden. The food is creative, but not too esoteric. Start with the focaccia, which might come topped with prosciutto and figs or burrata and anchovies, and go from there.

It’s hard to say what’s more impressive about Galleria Borghese: the art or the building that houses it

DAY 2: Baroque Rome

Florence may be known for its Renaissance art and architecture, but in Rome it’s all about the Baroque. The style took hold when papal power was at its peak, and it remains a testament to the genius of masters like Bernini and Borromini.

10 a.m. - Galleria Borghese

Have a quick breakfast at your hotel and then head over to Galleria Borghese, one of the city’s must-visit museums. The 17th-century building created to house Cardinal Scipione Borghese’s formidable art collection has sumptuous interiors replete with ceiling frescoes. Inside, artistic treasures include sculptures by Bernini and Canova and paintings by Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, and Rubens. 

Or if you’ve already been there, take a tour of Villa Medici, the French Academy in Rome. The 16th-century villa on the Pincio Hill was recently restyled by India Mahdavi and Fendi. You can only see the interiors on a guided tour. They’re offered in English at 11 am every day except Tuesday.

Afterward, go for a stroll in Villa Borghese, the heart-shaped park just north of Piazza del Popolo. There’s a little lake with rowboats, a replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theater, and plenty of grassy knolls where you can sit and relax. The Pincio Promenade on the southwestern side of the park offers incredible views of the city.

1 p.m. – Lunch on the People’s Square

Walk down the hill to Piazza del Popolo, which was once the northern entrance to the city. Fuel up with a quick lunch at Canova, where filmmaker Federico Fellini liked to hang out. (You can sit and order or grab a quick sandwich at the bar.) Or if you feel like treating yourself, go to Le Jardin de Russie inside the Hotel de Russie and relax in the beautiful garden with a plate of ravioli cacio e pepe.

Hotel de Russie’s Stravinskij Bar also serves light meals

2 p.m. - Walking tour of the centro storico’s most important piazzas

Three streets—Via di Ripetta, Via del Corso, and Via del Babuino—branch out from Piazza del Popolo’s southern end. Follow Via del Babuino toward the Spanish Steps, so-called because of the Spanish Embassy located on the piazza. In front of the steps is the Barcaccia fountain by Bernini. Sitting on the steps is forbidden, but you can climb to the top for great views.

From there, continue walking on Via Sistina toward Piazza Barberini, where you’ll see another fountain by Bernini, this one depicting Neptune. The more famous Trevi Fountain is just a few blocks away. Its sheer scale is truly awe-inspiring—the crowds less so.

From there, it’s just a few blocks to the Pantheon, the city’s best-preserved ancient monument and the world’s most architecturally perfect building. Pay your respects to Raphael, whose tomb is inside, then walk over to the Church of Santa Maria della Pace to see his incredible frescoes. If you need a pick-me-up, stop by the Tazza d’Oro, which has been roasting their own coffee beans since the 1930s.

Another church worth popping into while you’re in the area is San Luigi dei Francesi, which houses not one, not two, but three Caravaggios that you have to see to believe. Then cross the Corso Rinascimento and you’ll find yourself at Piazza Navona, the ultimate Baroque piazza. Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers might be his greatest masterpiece.

In Piazza Navona, it’s easy to see why Rome is often likened to an open air museum

4:30 p.m. – A jewel of a museum

If you have the stamina for another museum, one of my favorites is right across the street from Piazza Navona and it’s open until 7 p.m. (the ticket office closes at 6 p.m.). Palazzo Altemps is housed in a Renaissance palace where Cardinal Altemps displayed his enviable art collection, but the most mind-blowing thing to see is the building itself. Specifically the loggia, which is frescoed in the grotesque style (so-called because it was inspired by the frescoes found in ancient Roman grottoes). You can see the whole museum in an hour or less.

6 p.m. - Gelato or aperitivo

Afterwards, head over to the Gelateria del Teatro. Just a few blocks from Piazza Navona, this gelateria uses all natural ingredients. Choose from the classic flavors or try one of their original flavors, like raspberry and sage or vecchia Roma (ricotta and cherry).

Or stroll toward Campo de’ Fiori, which is famous for its market and bars known as hangout spots for American exchange students. I wouldn’t recommend the bars right on Campo de’ Fiori, but if you want to have an aperitivo nearby, you could go to Caffè Roscioli or VyNIQUE (formerly Vyta) on Piazza Farnese.

8 p.m. - Dinner at Da Enzo al 29

Cross the Tiber and you’ll find yourself in Trastevere, the charming cobblestone neighborhood known for restaurants and bars. Unfortunately the secret is out about Da Enzo al 29 and they don’t take reservations, so there’s always a wait, but if you want to experience a true Roman trattoria, this is the place to go. They make some of the best carbonara and cacio e pepe in the city—and everything else is delicious too. 

Whatever you do, don’t miss the Hall of Maps in the Vatican

DAY 3: Artistic and architectural treasures

Today you’ll see the Sistine Chapel—or perhaps an offbeat museum where industrial relics and ancient sculptures coexist—and eat some of the city’s best pizza.

8 a.m. – Treasures of the Vatican Museums

The Vatican Museums officially open at 8 a.m. and if you want to avoid the crowds, it’s best to go as soon as the museum opens. (Book your timed tickets or tour in advance. If you really want the museum to yourself and money is no object, book an exclusive 6 a.m. tour with the key keeper.) The official tours typically last a couple of hours and will show you the highlights of the collections. 

If you want to remain in the museum after the tour ends, you could easily spend half a day visiting the galleries and still not see everything. After you’ve seen the Sistine Chapel, go to St. Peter’s Basilica. Even if you’re not Catholic, you can appreciate the altar by Bernini and Michelangelo’s Pietà.

If you’ve already seen the Vatican Museums, you might want to visit one of Rome’s more off-the-beaten path museums instead. One of my favorites is the Centrale Montemartini, which houses ancient statues of gods and goddesses inside Rome’s first power plant.

12:30 p.m. – Pizza that’s worth the wait

A few blocks away from the Vatican is Pizzarium Bonci, where you’ll find the best pizza al taglio in Rome. This little hole-in-the-wall spot is the brainchild of master baker Gabriele Bonci. The pizzas come topped with a wide variety of classic and creative toppings. Take a number and wait your turn—the line can be long, but it’s worth it.

If you opted to visit the Centrale Montemartini instead, walk over to the Mercato di Testaccio and grab some pizza at Casa Manco inside the market. The selection is smaller than at Bonci, but the quality is just as good.